Hair Treatments Explained: Keratin, Masks, Creams and Oils
Keratin, masks, leave-in creams, oils and hair vitamin capsules all claim to fix damaged hair. Here is what each treatment actually does, who it suits, and how to use them without weighing hair down.
"Hair treatment" can mean almost anything. A two-hour keratin smoothing service at a salon, a tub of mask you leave on for five minutes in the shower, a cream you smooth in before bed, or a few drops of oil on your ends. They all sit in the same aisle, often with similar words on the label: repair, nourish, restore.
They are not interchangeable. Each type works in a different way, suits a different kind of hair, and can backfire if you use the wrong one. Fine hair loaded with a heavy mask goes flat. Thick, frizzy hair with only a light spray stays frizzy.
This guide explains the main treatment types and how to choose. For an overview of the whole hair routine, including shampoo and conditioner, see our guide to hair care products in Singapore.
First, what "damage" means
Hair is not living tissue, so it cannot heal itself. When hair is bleached, coloured, heat-styled or brushed roughly, the outer layer (the cuticle) gets roughed up and the inner structure can weaken. Damaged hair feels dry, tangles easily, looks dull and frizzes more in humidity.
Treatments can make damaged hair look and feel much better by smoothing the surface, filling in rough patches and reducing breakage while you grow it out. They cannot turn bleached ends back into new hair. Trimming split ends is still the only real fix for them.
Keratin: two very different things
Salon keratin smoothing
A salon "keratin treatment" is a chemical smoothing service. It coats the hair and is sealed with a hot flat iron, making hair straighter and less frizzy for weeks or months. It is popular in humid places like Singapore.
Ask your salon what the formula contains and how it is applied, and follow their aftercare instructions, which usually include avoiding certain shampoos for the first days.
Keratin in shampoos, conditioners and masks
At home, "keratin" products contain keratin-derived proteins or similar ingredients that can temporarily coat and smooth the hair. They do not straighten hair like a salon service, but they can help with frizz and roughness.
CBD Keratin Pro Hair Mask
CBDCBD Keratin Pro Hair Mask 500gHair mask from CBD Keratin Pro Series for intensive care on each strand of hair, which can nourish hair and restore hair elasticity.S$18.85 is a large tub of keratin-themed mask from a salon-style range, intended for regular care of each strand. Use it on mid-lengths and ends.
A note on protein: if hair starts to feel stiff, straw-like or brittle after several weeks of protein treatments, switch to a moisturising mask for a while. Hair needs a balance of protein and moisture.
Masks: the weekly deep condition
A hair mask is a richer, more concentrated conditioner. You apply it after shampoo, leave it for a few minutes, then rinse. Most people use a mask once or twice a week in place of their usual conditioner.
Shiseido Tsubaki Premium Repair Mask
ShiseidoShiseido Tsubaki Premium Repair Mask 180gREPAIRS SEVERELY DAMAGED HAIR* IN ONE USE** KEEP HAIR SOFT FOR 7 DAYS STRAIGHT^ AND ACHIEVE SALON-QUALITY HAIR AT HOME WITH ZERO WAITING TIME!S$20.39 is a popular rinse-out Japanese mask that slots easily into a shower routine in place of conditioner.Elvive Dream Lengths Saviour Mask
ElviveElvive Dream Lengths Saviour Mask 300mlEnriched with Vegetal Keratin, Castor Oil and Vitamins, the Dream Lengths Saviour Mask regenerates strength and rescues damaged lengths through intense repair and nutrition.S$15.99 is designed for long hair whose ends tend to be dry and tangly.Dove Hair Treatment Mask Intense Repair
DoveDove Hair Treatment Mask Intense Repair 200mlIntense Repair treatment mask for damaged hair, 200ml.S$14.89 is an accessible option for damaged hair.
How to use a mask well:
Shampoo, then squeeze out as much water as you can. Masks work better on damp, not dripping, hair.
Apply from mid-lengths to ends. Keep it off the scalp, especially if your scalp is oily.
Comb through with a wide-tooth comb to spread it evenly.
Leave on for the time on the pack. Longer is not always better.
Rinse thoroughly. Residue makes hair look greasy by the evening.
Leave-in creams: daily help for dry or frizzy hair
Leave-in creams and conditioners stay in the hair. They help with detangling, softness and frizz control throughout the day. They suit thick, curly, coarse or very dry hair best.
L'Oréal Paris Elvive Total Repair 5 Protein Recharge Leave-In Conditioner
L'Oréal ParisL'Oréal Paris Elvive Total Repair 5 Protein Recharge Leave-In Conditioner 150ml150ml Total Repair 5 Protein Recharge leave-in conditioner.S$22.59 is a leave-in conditioner for damaged hair that you apply to damp lengths before styling. Elseve Hyaluron Moisture Night Leave-In Cream
ElseveElseve Cream Hyaluron Moisture Night Leave-In 150mlElseve Cream Hyaluron Moisture Night Leave-In: Wake up with hair that is soft, detangled, and frizz controlled.S$10.55 is designed to go on before bed, so hair wakes up softer and less tangled. If you sleep with air-conditioning on, an overnight cream can make dry hair feel more comfortable in the morning.
For fine hair, use a pea-sized amount on the ends only, or skip leave-ins and use a light spray instead.
Oils: shine and frizz control
Hair oils seal the surface, add shine and reduce frizz. They are the most versatile treatment: a couple of drops on damp ends before drying, or on dry hair to smooth flyaways.
Kérastase Elixir Ultime L'Huile Originale
KerastaseKerastase Elixir Ultime L'huile Originale Oil Dull Hair Refillable 75mlIt can be used as a pre-cleanse, or a pre-blow dry oil, and for finishing and touch-ups during the day.S$72.49 is a premium oil that can be used before cleansing, before blow-drying and for touch-ups during the day. Pharmacy brands offer lighter, cheaper alternatives.
Fine hair: one or two drops on ends only
Thick or curly hair: more, worked through mid-lengths
Oily scalp: keep oil well away from the roots
Hair vitamin capsules
Popular across Southeast Asia, these are small single-use capsules of hair serum, usually oil-based, that you break open and smooth onto hair. Despite the name, they are not supplements; they work on the hair surface like a light oil.
Ellips Hair Vitamin Hair Treatment
EllipsEllips Hair Vitamin Hair Treatment 12 x 1ml• Enriched with Moroccan oil
• Jojoba oil for damaged hair
• Enriched with vitaminsS$4.78 is a well-known example, enriched with oils and vitamins. The single doses are convenient for travel and the gym.
Treatment sets: when to buy the system
Many brands sell treatments as part of a numbered system: shampoo, treatment, oil. &Honey Deep Moist Treatment Step 2.0
&Honey&Honey Deep Moist Treatment Step 2.0 445ml&Honey Deep Moist Treatment Step 2.0: A deep hydrating moisture-sustaining treatment with a luxurious blend of honey.S$29.19 is the rinse-out treatment step of a moisturising line that also includes shampoo and oil.
Sets are worth it when you have tried one product from the line and like how it works on your hair. They also make good gifts. If your scalp is oily but your ends are dry, you may be better off mixing a balancing shampoo with a repair treatment from a different line.
Which treatment for which hair?
Fine, oily hair: light conditioner, a mask once a week on ends only, a drop of oil if needed
Thick, frizzy hair: mask weekly, leave-in cream daily, oil to finish
Bleached or coloured hair: repair mask, leave-in, heat protection, and consider a bond-repair product
Curly hair: leave-in cream and oil for definition, mask weekly
Heat-styled hair: heat protectant every time, oil on ends, mask weekly
Common mistakes
Applying masks and oils to the scalp. This flattens roots and can contribute to build-up and itching.
Using protein-heavy treatments every wash. Alternate with moisturising ones.
Expecting one mask to fix bleached ends. It will help the feel, but a trim is the only real fix for splits.
Layering mask, leave-in, cream and oil on fine hair. Choose one or two.
If your hair is shedding more than usual, falling out in patches, or your scalp is sore or scaly, that is not a treatment issue. See a doctor.
Bottom line
Masks are for weekly deep conditioning, leave-in creams for daily softness, oils for shine and frizz, and keratin either for salon smoothing or at-home frizz care. Match the treatment to your hair's thickness and damage level, keep it on the lengths and off the scalp, and use less than you think on fine hair.
